Oh Yea!

So I started a little earlier than I expected. Now that the world has calmed itself after the holidays and our move and a slew of other things, I'm wandering around the house aimlessly, picking at my newly sprouted herbs and fussing over the established orchard sitting in my dining room taking up entirely too much room for comfort. My little two liter method is actually viable and doing well, I'm just not producing enough light and any plans to build an indoor greenhouse against a huge bank of south facing windows in my living room has my husband twitching and putting up his dukes. So I wander, mumbling to myself under my breath and dodging pillows as they are launched by tha man because he knows I'm not so quietly cursing him under my breath for not allowing me to build a jungle in the house. *sigh*

So I'm shopping online instead. I placed my order for the delightful Pink Lemonade Blueberry plus a gaggle of multi-hued raspberries. A cheap order to be sure but my penny pinching is paying off (all tallied, I paid off 7K+ of our debt last year and have just a little more to go to get down to a car payment and mortgage only) and I'm starting to build my respectable orchard even as I have dreams of a yard full of vegetables and gorgeous flowers.

I have to remind myself that I still need to pick up speed slowly. Get a few things established this year, fight the problems with one or two different plants instead of fifteen. Easier to handle a crisis of raspberries than the entire lot of berries that I ultimately plan to have sprouting in all directions around the fence line of the house (yea, think twice about jumping my fence, there buddy).

While I'm not a newbie at gardening, I am not of a mind to tackle multiple problems my first year of major expansion from the previous couple of years of gardening. And the past couple of years have seen horrendous failure. I seem to manage to plant everything that is going to fail for everyone in my area that year. It's actually amazing that I have a knack for it. I paid especial attention to tomatoes last year and that was just a really shitty year for tomatoes and not just in my area from reading other blogs.

But I know better than to give up. I'll be worried about the little failures when the grocery stores stop carrying fresh produce and canned goods. For now, however, I have my place in line reserved for the new pink blueberry. The birds are going to love me. I wonder if I can get a fly swatter big enough for the birds I'm going to be fighting off my blueberry bush.

So the restless wandering is now aimed at how I'm going to handle this particular treat when (if!) I get it. I know the website had it up for grabs, but that doesn't mean I'll get it. Actually, it does mean that I'll be the first one on the "We're out of that for now, we'll ship it and bill you as soon as we have them in" song and dance like it was for my carmine jewel cherry last year even though I ordered it in plenty of time for them to give me a spring shipment as per the website (nameless company!) but yet I didn't get it until September.

Anyway, I think I have the perfect place to put the tophat that I already have in a container and it's pink counter part plus still have enough full sun for the raspberries on that side of the fence. We'll have to see. Now it's all about soil. I have a good bag of it, but I want to put together Mel's Mix so that I can be a little more worry free with it.

I'm very enthusiastic about the whole thing. I've been dying to get out there and do it and so now, I will.

Pink Lemonade Blueberry

The catalogs have been pouring in and I've been getting the budget ready for the plants that we're going to go with this year and this one seems to be close to the top of my list. It's

Vaccinium 'Pink Lemonade'

From what I've read on it, even the flowers have a pinkish color to them. It appears to be like a regular blueberry in all other respects liking acidic, well drained soil with lots of organic material.

I adore blueberries. They are one of my favorite fruits because they are just delicious! I am very much looking forward to these guys in a nice mix of fruits for a snack or in a compote with a good helping of home made ice cream.

Garden Update

Aside from running around and helping to tend to other gardens, my little container garden is doing well. I'm excited that I've been able to start a new project. I got the idea to do this from the archives of Aerogarden Mastery page. It is very easy and very basic so I hunted down a self watering pot, a big one, the one I have is 20" around and perlite and vermiculite. I thoroughly mixed the two bags of medium together, watered it thoroughly and then planted my carrot seeds straight into the moist medium and then gave it a nice spray of water with a spray bottle.


The medium and the bottom reservoir held nearly two gallons of water without overflowing. The reservoir was only about 1/2 full. It will be very interesting to see if this little experiment will work. The link above actually have pictures of how it worked out over several weeks and so I thought I'd give it a shot.

The kids had a great time!

My tomatoes are doing fantastic!

The sauce tomato came up first, but isn't producing as fast as the black plum tomato below. Both are doing very well except for some expected fungal problems that I expected after it rained nearly every day in the late afternoon for three weeks. I handled the fungus problems and we've been doing pretty good ever since. Though, there are just a ton of suckers that I'm having to remove.

Black plum tomatoes are a lot larger than I thought they would be. They are actually a nice good size. I've see blushes of color on the sauce tomatoes, but nothing as of yet on the plums. But very excited because there are just a ton of flowers.

But they will be red and ripe.

The tiny little banana's I got have exploded into these beautiful long wide leaves. It's amazing how much growth they have! Right next to them is the orange and it has tripled in size itself.

The blueberry (left right beneath the orange) took a pretty serious hit in a storm, losing half the plant to hard winds, but it has finally come out of the shock and is starting to grow again. The lemon is the only one that doesn't seem to have bushed out, the very light green one in the middle, but the leaves are just growing large. The pomegrante in the red container, has a lot of blooms and has long branches. The lime on the other side of the large carrot container, has also tripled in size and has a lot of new growth.

Everything is growing so well and there have been no set backs so far. I'm just waiting for my cherry tree to come in this fall so that the last empty pot that doesn't seem to want to stay up right anywhere can be filled with its own tree, too!

Birthday Present

I went out to look at my tomatoes today, my birthday, and found just tons of little tomatoes everywhere on both plants. Couldn't have gotten a better present. I'm looking forward to the ripe red tomatoes right off the vine. Provided the make it that far. My husband and children are threatening to go right out there with a salt shaker and demolish the lot!

I like the fencing I put up around them instead of the cages. They seem much more stable and there isn't a problem with reaching the berries. Very good buy on the fencing.

The fruit trees are doing very well. The blueberry took a serious hit in one of the very serious storms that we had. Half of the plant was ripped off, but the rest of it survived and there is new growth. The banana's have tripled in size and all the citrus has a lot of new growth. Very awesome to see it.

I do have one fear. The citrus greening disease and the insects that carry them are spreading. South Carolina and Georgia both have recently been put on the infected list. Keep your eye out on that for your area. There is a link at the top!

Blueberry Syrup

Blueberry Syrup

Makes about 3 (16 oz) pints

You will need:
8 cups blueberries , crushed (about 3-1/2 lb)
6 cups water, divided
1 Tbsp lemon zest
3 cups granulated sugar
2 Tbsp lemon juice
3 (16 oz) pint glass preserving jars with lids and bands

Directions:

1.) COMBINE blueberries, 2 cups of the water and lemon zest in a large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat and boil gently for 5 minutes.

2.) TRANSFER to a dampened jelly bag or a strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth set over a deep bowl. Let drip, undisturbed, for at least 2 hours.

3.) PREPARE boiling water canner. Heat jars and lids in simmering water until ready for use. Do not boil. Set bands aside.

4.) COMBINE sugar and remaining 4 cups water in a clean large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar, and cook until temperature reaches 230°F, adjusting for altitude. Add blueberry juice. Increase heat to high, bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice.

5.) LADLE hot syrup into hot jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe rim. Center lid on jar. Apply band until fit is fingertip tight.

6.) PROCESS jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes, adjusting for altitude. Remove jars and cool. Check lids for seal after 24 hours. Lid should not flex up and down when center is pressed.

Blueberry Grand Marnier Jam

1 1/2 quarts blueberries (5 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons lemon juice
7 cups sugar
2 packages liquid pectin
1/4 cup Grand Marnier

Directions

1 Place blueberries in large pot.
2 Add water and lemon juice.
3 Mash slightly.
4 Let stand 10 minutes.
5 Add sugar and mix well.
6 Place over high heat, being to full rolling boil and boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
7 Remove from heat.
8 Stir in pectin and liqueur.
9 Stir and skim for 5 minutes.

I Heart Blueberries

Why do I heart blueberries? Because they are an excellent source of antioidants. It's a blue food. What does the blue stuff in there give you? A megawhopping 30%+ of your daily alotted dosage of Vitamin C, ~20% magnesium, 15% dietary fiber, a dallop of ~10% Vitamin E all for that one cup serving to hand you ~80 calories. It's an anti-aging food, gives healthy memory, keeps skin wrinkle free. In a recent study on blueberries, it was found they are highest foods for eliminating free radicals.

According to WHFoods: "Packed with antioxidant phytonutrients called anthocyanidins, blueberries neutralize free radical damage to the collagen matrix of cells and tissues that can lead to cataracts, glaucoma, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, peptic ulcers, heart disease and cancer. Anthocyanins, the blue-red pigments found in blueberries, improve the integrity of support structures in the veins and entire vascular system. Anthocyanins have been shown to enhance the effects of vitamin C, improve capillary integrity, and stabilize the collagen matrix (the ground substance of all body tissues). They work their protective magic by preventing free-radical damage, inhibiting enzymes from cleaving the collagen matrix, and directly cross-linking with collagen fibers to form a more stable collagen matrix.

Now if that isn't cool, I don't know what is. They went on to state:

"While wine, particularly red wine, is touted as cardioprotective since it is a good source of antioxidant anthocyanins, a recent study found that blueberries deliver 38% more of these free radical fighters. In this study, published in the Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry, researchers found that a moderate drink (about 4 ounces) of white wine contained .47 mmol of free radical absorbing antioxidants, red wine provided 2.04 mmol, and a wine made from highbush blueberries delivered 2.42 mmol of these protective plant compounds."
So what's not to love?

Growing them isn't difficult if you have a good bead on things.

Blueberries lack abundant root hairs and have shallow, underdeveloped roots concentrated in the top 14 inches of soil. As a result, regular watering and thick mulch are critical to keep down weeds. A very acid pH is necessary for the plant to extract iron and nitrogen from the soil. Most blueberry woes are caused by pH stresses. Plant 2 year old bushes. When your plants arrive, do not put them in water. Follow the directions and heel in until ready to plant. Adding beneficial mycoorrhizal fungi to the root system will increase yield.

Low bush varieties are grown primarily in New England. High bush throughout the US and the rabbiteye only in the South and West. Lowbush and rabbiteye requireanother variety for cross-pollination, highbush types don't but yields increase with cross-pollination.

To encourage root grown, remove all blossoms for a full 2 to 3 years. The delayed harvest will reward you with higher yields and healthier plants. Blueberries mature at about 50 to 60 days from pollination. From areas prone to late spring frosts, blueberries are a good choice, with strong frost resistance. If your soil is sufficiently acid and well draining, consider adding blueberries to your landscape as easy, low care plants that provide fresh fruit yearly and beautiful red foliage in the fall.

Blueberry bushes should be planted in full sunlight for maximum fruit production. Set out plants as early in the spring as possible. Plant bushes one to two inches deeper in the soil than they were in the nursery, six to eight feet apart, in rows spaced eight to ten feet apart. After plants have been set in the holes, fill the holes three-fourths full with soil mixture, and then flood the hole. After the water has drained, fill in the holes with soil and tamp it down.

They need full sun away from other plants and away from paths, roads and driveways as to not disturb the plants. pH should be around 4.0 to 5.6. About a month after setting out plants, apply one-half to one ounce of 10-10-10 (one to two ounces of 5-10-10 or equivalent) in a band around the base of the plant. In following years, increase rate of fertilizer by one to two ounces (of 10-10-10 or equivalent) per year until mature. When mature, blueberry bushes require about one-half pound of 10-10-10 (or equivalent) per year applied in April. In larger plantings, 40 to 50 pounds of actual nitrogen should be applied per acre.

Mulching the plants with clean straw, rotted sawdust, pine needles, shredded oak leaves, or wood chips will help conserve moisture as well as aid in weed control. A three to four inch layer of the above materials should be suitable. Generally, grass is allowed to grow between the rows of bushes, as long as the grass can be mowed frequently.

Mature blueberry bushes require one to two inches of water each week for best growth and productivity, especially during the harvest season. Blueberry bushes, especially young ones, suffer starvation if weeds or lawn are allowed to grow too close. Blueberry roots are close to the soil surface and need to be protected against competing weeds. Mulching is the recommended method of weed control around plants.

Pruning is the most important aspect of blueberry culture. Annual pruning is necessary to invigorate the bushes, encourage annual fruit production, and prevent the bushes from overbearing. Until the bushes reach maturity (at about eight years old) remove only dead, broken, short or weak shoots. On mature bushes remove one-third of the oldest shoots each year, as well as any broken or diseased branches. Prune in late winter or early spring before growth begins.

Flower buds are produced on the end of a shoot's growth. The flower buds are plump and rounded, leaf buds are small and pointed. Each flower bud may produce a cluster of five to eight berries. If all flower buds are left on, too many berries will be produced and many will be small and worthless. Also, short, thin shoots will grow resulting in poor fruiting wood for the following year's crop. Bushes need little pruning during the first two or three years after planting; only short, weak twiggy growth need be removed.

After two summers in the field, all the plants should be ready to prune for a small crop (1/2 to 1 pint per bush). Remove the thin, twiggy growth and concentrate the potential crop on a small number of stout, fruiting shoots. By limiting the cropping to only the strong shoots, the bush will continue to grow rapidly. A heavy crop at this time dwarfs the bush.

After the fourth summer in the field, some canes may show a weakening due to heavy bearing. From this time on, the first step in pruning is to remove canes which have only small weak, fruiting twigs. They may be cut to the ground or to a strong side shoot near the ground. This will stimulate the sprouting of new canes from the base, which keeps a plant relatively "young." It also allows adequate sunlight to penetrate the bush and promote the setting of fruit buds.
With enough sunlight, the new canes will start producing fruiting laterals in the second year at a relatively low level in the bush and will be able to develop a large zone of fruiting wood in the third and fourth years. In a dense, crowded bush a new cane will take three or four years to produce nothing more than a tuft of fruiting twigs at the very top of the bush.

The number of old canes to be removed depends on the rate of growth over the past several years and varies considerably over six years old; it may be necessary to remove two canes annually due to changing growth rates.

After removing the older canes, the small twiggy growth is eliminated in favor of the stronger shoots. A limited amount of twiggy growth may be left in the lower portion of the bush. At this level shading is not a factor, and the fruit production from these twigs will add to the total crop.

Blueberry bushes are often weakened by: overbearing due to improper pruning, poor soil drainage, insufficient fertilizer, drought injury, crowding, scale injury, and grubs feeding on the roots. After the undesirable conditions have been corrected, it is possible to rejuvenate the plants by removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the old bush. This is accomplished by making large cuts at ground level. The remaining portion of the plant is allowed to bear heavily. The remaining old canes are removed the following spring.

Birds are a major problem with blueberry growing. Bushes often must be covered with netting to protect developing berries from birds. The major insect pests on blueberries are apple maggot, fruit worms, and Japanese beetles. The major diseases are mummy berry, twig blights (caused by several different fungi), and viruses.

Disease prevention is a good rule to follow when growing any small fruit. With blueberry growing, the following cultural practices will help prevent serious problems with most diseases.
Plant disease resistant varieties when possible. Purchase healthy plants.

Regular pruning helps to increase production, removes diseased plant parts, increases air circulation within the plants, and helps initiate fruit bud formation.

Prune out all diseased and insect-infested wood. Remove any wood that is broken or damaged. All diseased wood should be burned to prevent reinfestation of healthy plants. Keep plants free from weeds and debris. Rake under the bushes.

Disease Symptoms
"Mummy berry" is the most serious blueberry disease in Massachusetts. It is a fungus which first appears on newly emerging stems and flower clusters causing them to blacken and die. Later, spores infect blossoms. Developing fruit become tan and hard. These "mummified" berries eventually fall to the ground. Fungal spores overwinter inside the mummified berries. Removing infected berries is essential in preventing the disease from reoccurring. Raking and shallow cultivating between plants helps remove mummified berries. Applying 50 percent urea prills in the spring reduces spores from the mummified berries thereby reducing infections on plant growth.

"Fusicoccom (Godronia) canker" begins on plant parts near the ground, and appears as small reddish spots on the canes, often around a leafscar. These spots enlarge, forming a bullseye pattern. Fusicoccum cankers eventually girdle canes causing wilting and die-back.
"Phomopsis twig blight" causes symptoms very similar to those caused by Fusicoccum canker. Spores from infected plant parts are released in the spring and infect smaller twigs. Flagging and dieback follow initial twig infections. Leaf spots as well as crown infections can also occur.
Planting blueberries in optimal sites and proper pruning practices help to prevent these diseases. Winter cold encourages both Fusicoccum and Phomopsis. Practices which reduce winter damage, such as fertilizing in spring rather than fall, will decrease chances of encountering these diseases.

"Anthracnose" is often a problem on developing fruit. This fungus also overwinters in diseased twigs, spurs, and stem cankers. The spores are spread by rain and wind. Infected fruit bear bright pink spore clusters. Proper pruning practices help control this disease.
"Botrytis" causes rotting on ripening fruit under moist conditions. Encouraging good air circulation and frequent picking reduce this problem.

Nutritional problems: Often, blueberry leaves show a yellowing, or chlorosis, especially between the leaf veins. This is usually a result of the blueberry roots being unable to take up iron from the soil. This "iron deficiency" is more often than not related to soil pH, or acidity. Blueberries should be grown in a pH range of 4.2 to 5.0. Above pH 5.0 the plants show this typical deficiency symptom. If your plants show yellow leaves (as described above), please have your soil tested to determine if the problem is pH related.

Other Problems
Problem: The leaves on my blueberry bushes are turning yellow.
Cause: Interveinal yellowing (chlorosis) of blueberry leaves is most often caused by iron deficiency. When the soil pH is too high, blueberry roots cannot take up iron, and the plant appears to be iron deficient. Have your soil tested for pH level before you apply iron. Often, correcting the pH level is all that's needed.

Harvesting
Highbush blueberries are often harvested too early. Leave them on the bush for 5 to 10 days after they turn blue. Berries should be harvested at two to three day intervals to discourage Japanese beetles, other insects, and fruit rots from entering ripening fruit. Pick directly into the storage bowl or containers so that as little as possible of their protective wax is removed. The more wax, the longer shelf life.

High Bush (vaccinium acorymbosum)

Bluecrop

This one can yield up to 20 pounds per plant, 4' to 6', drought resistant. Zones 4-7

Blueray

Yields up to 20 pounds, very sweet, 4'-6', great ornamental. Zones 4-6

Bluetta

Yields up to 20 pounds of fruit per plant., 3' - 5', good ornamental due to low stature and scarlet foliage. Zones 5-7.

Elliot

Up to 20 pound yield. May need extra pruning dur to heavy set, very tart until 60% of fruit is ripe, 5'-7', good ornamental. Zones 4-7

Hardy blue

Small berry with superior flavor.

Northblue

up to 7 pounds of yield, 20"-30", very cold hardy, Zones 3-7